Basically it is necessary to clamp an angled block against the Gifkins stop so that the board can be located and clamped at the chosen angle (rather than vertically).  The stop can be moved laterally to position the joint symmetrically across the board (or otherwise as required or desired) and fixed in position (so that the board with pins cut on the opposite side of the jig and template will exactly match the board with the dovetails).

I have successfully made angled joints as wide as 240 mm (in maple) and down to 35 mm (in Silver Ash).  For such very narrow boards it is necessary to extend the (Gifkins design) angled block closer to, or even right down to the template, even if later the block is cut away partially by the straight cutter.  I have cut 85 mm joints in 8 mm balsa.  Finishing an angled balsa box can be done on an electric belt sander, but don't turn it on!

After some practice with normal box making (with 90º sides), I found it highly desirable to purchase a second stop (at about $45).  With only a single stop, unless all 4 boards are the same width and the joint is symmetrical across the board, it is necessary to reposition the stop for half the cuts!  With two stops, these can be positioned at opposite ends of the jig and all the boards can be jigged with their bottom edges against the respective stop (or against an angled block against the respective stop), before any cuts are made.

As always, boards should be cut accurately, with a perfectly straight bottom edge and, normally, with exactly 90º ends (or in my case with 79.4º ends).  However, because the pins and tails are to be made to protrude by about 0.5 mm for subsequent cleanup, a board with a slightly imperfect end can be clamped against the stop (or against the angled block), even if the end is not absolutely square to the template.  Accurate board preparation is preferable.

I find it far simpler to work with two stops, using only the bottom edge of a board as the datum;  accordingly I have written instructions for use of the Gifkins jig with two stops and will pass these on to any Association member who emails a request to fwduff@optusnet.com.au

It is also important to finish-sand the insides of boards before cutting the joints, otherwise the joints will become looser when the joints are reassembled;  on the other hand it is difficult to finish the inside of an assembled box.  So, marks to identify the outside and the bottom edge, should be made on the outside of boards where they can be more-easily cleaned up later.

With two stops, it is simple to cut dovetails on four boards on one stop, then move the angled stop to the other stop, rotate the four boards (the clean inside face must always face the jig) and cut another four dovetails.  Similarly, using the other side of the jig, for four boards with pins.  Assemble two angled boxes, invert one, and you get an egg shape - if you get an hourglass shape, try again!

Two stops are also particularly useful in the case of a split box (where the lid is cut from the box proper after all the tails and pins are cut and even after all the joints are glued-up).

Finally, an angled box, e.g. a window box, can have one, two, or three angled faces (with three, two, or one vertical faces), provided the dovetail slots are cut in the vertical boards.  More experimentation is planned.

Frank Duff
28 February 2002